Leg 3: Siem Reap-Anlong Veng-Siem Reap (in pink).We embarked on the journey with mixed feelings. Is Pol Pot's grave a historical site or is it "genocide tourism"? This was a question EL and I had talked about at length, and we decided on the former.
Our taxi driver was also in two minds over the impending visit, and tried to convince us that Pol Pot's grave didn't exist. However, before making that leap, we were to visit the residence of Ta Mok, or Brother Number 5.
Ta Mok's house was easily accessable, and therefore there were a sprinkling of other visitors. An elderly man you had emigrated to the US in the early-1980s struck up (an unsolicited) conversation with us about his experiences during the Khmer Rouge. This was a timely reminder of the need Cambodians have to have the opportunity to talk about grim experiences if they wish to.
Above: the taxi needed high-octane for high performance. This station fit the bill perfectly.We procrastinated before moving onto the grave site. It was still a weird idea. We drove to a small shop on the side of the road. I thought our driver was asking directions, but then we were ushered out of the car and around the back of an old house. Stumbling through rubbish and past a chicken coup, I failed to recognise that behind this house lot was in fact the location of Pol Pot's grave.
We stood there and stared. It was not so much a grave but a pathetic attempt at a resting place. This was where Pol Pot was hastily cremated and we didn't know what to do. We wandered around, took a few pictures, and meandered back to the car.
Above: A very strange feeling and the final resting place of Pol Pot.While it was difficult to articulate to ourselves the significance of the trip, our driver suddenly had come to understand. He had been uneasy at the grave site, but after some time he took a few pictures on his mobile phone. Now he was calling friends to tell them all about it!
The final stop on this grim tour was Pol Pot's house. This involved a long drive through the jungle on an inhospitable road. More than once I was convinced the road was too much for the car would and we would be forced to turn around. However, our driver had a new zest - he wanted to find this infamous house. To complicate things, the land on either side of the road had been mined. We tried to keep this detail out of our head and just concentrated on the road.
Somewhere along the Thai border in the middle of the jungle we finally came across that lonely house that once belonged to Pol Pot. Much of the building had been demolished, but there was a enough to get a sense of what must have been. Bomb shelters and a beautiful view seem to be the standard for tyrants, and this house fit that bill exactly. Another round of awkward looking, pictures and feelings followed, although our driver did start to get very enthusiastic over taking his own pictures.
Above: Pol Pot's house, deep in the jungle.We then headed back to Siem Reap, sure in the knowledge that this day would be like no other.
Next stop: Koh Ker
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